Never Discard Seafood Eggs: Transform Them Into a Gourmet Butter – Guide
Apart from its impressive beaches and wild shoreline, this island has a exceptional culinary tradition, deeply grounded in its land and sea. From internationally renowned Jersey Royal baby potatoes to shellfish sweeter and more tender than any tasted elsewhere, Jersey's harvest is second to none. The thing that excites me most, though, is how island producers and growers are embracing sustainable agriculture, while in doing so reinventing their culinary destiny with creativity and care.
A few weeks ago, I had the privilege to lead a talk at a event, and cook a welcome meal for all participants, together with a motivating founder. Naturally, the shellfish had to be on my spread, since they're Jersey at its finest: delicate, juicy and bursting of the sea.
Scallops seem to me the perfect embodiment of Jersey's culinary evolution: succulent, full and regenerative by nature, filtering and cleaning the sea while helping to create shoreline ecosystems. Whether cultivated and, crucially, hand-harvested, they are among the most sustainable proteins to eat. However many, who grew up on Jersey, do not eat the roes – an often-seen affliction, I fear. Even more reason to celebrate those rosy tidbits, which are far too tasty to throw out. Whipped into butter, they turn into sheer indulgence: melt over scallops, stir into rice dishes or simply slather on toasted slices.
They may be a little expensive, however, so I have devised the following method to transform a single scallop into an impressive starter (or three into a satisfying entree) and, by whipping their roe into smoked paprika spread and baking the scallops in the half-shells with small tomatoes and crushed garlic, potential waste turns into a luxury.
This ethos of reinvention is at the heart of the movement, that introduced an award providing funding to innovators with brand support, guidance and access to a retail platform. Judged by a panel of respected food experts, the prize is to be presented during an forthcoming conference. This is focused on supporting ideas that will help our food systems flourish, from soil to sea, and I can't think of an inspiring place for that conversation to begin than Jersey.
Shellfish Roasted in Egg Spread with Cherry Tomatoes and Garlic
Serves six as a appetizer or two as a main course
6 with eggs scallops in the half-shell
Eighteen cherry tomatoes, cut in half
6 cloves of garlic, crushed
3 whole red chillies (such as jalapeño), split lengthways, or 1 pinch chilli flakes, or to preference (optional)
50g unsalted butter
One teaspoon smoked or sweet paprika
Salt and black pepper, to liking
Lemon slices, to serve
A little samphire, saltwort or six small pickle slices, to decorate (optional)
Prepare the shellfish, removing the eggs from every and leaving the rest of the scallop attached to the half-shell (ask your seafood supplier to handle this for you, if necessary). Place six halved tomatoes in each shell with a clove's worth of crushed garlic cloves and one half a chili pepper, if using.
Transfer the scallop roes in a container of a hand blender (many prefer it's the best tool for blending small amounts), include the butter and paprika, and blend until creamy. Distribute the mixture among the shells, making sure each scallop is well coated in the spread.
Heat the broiler until it is very hot, then put the scallops beneath the flame for six to eight minutes, until charred and sizzling. Present right away, topped with if desired samphire, herbs, a slice of gherkin and/or a splash of the pickle juice or some lemon juice.